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Needle Lace was particularly sought after because of its delicacy.
It is made from a very fine number 400 cotton thread which is
finer than a human hair.
The pattern is transferred on to a dark coloured material using
the hot iron transfer process which was patented in 1874. Prior
to this ivention the pattern was often drawn directly on to glazed
cotton using indelible ink. The material with the pattern on it
is then tacked on to several layers of cloth to give it strength.
A foundation cord, usually about number 10 cotton is couched down
with a fine sewing cotton outlining the entire pattern. It is
couched into position through two rows of tiny holes pricked opposite
one another on either side of the cord. Once this outline cord
is in position, the spaces can be filled with a variety of stitches
to form the lace. They are usually worked in number 150 to 300
thread. The solid areas are worked in detached buttonhole stitch
and the remainder of the design is filled with a variety of ornamental
stitches, most of which are derived from antique Venetian and
French Needlepoint Laces but some are completely original. Then
the Venetian edging and tiny knotted border are added, either
as the work progresses or is complete.
Once the work is complete the pattern, with the lace attached, has
to be removed from the layers of backing cloth by snipping through
the tacking stitches. The lace then has to be detached from the
pattern by cutting through the couching stitch. The finished lace
can then be lifted away.
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